Marbella · Spain

Population - 100,036
Distance from Malaga airport: 30 Miles (48KMS)

The most expensive resort in Spain, Marbella promotes a particular brand of luxury tourism conceived largely by the town's larger than life former mayor Jesús Gil y Gil. Gil finally stood down from office in 2002, and was given a three year prison sentence for financial irregularities concerning his Atlético de Madrid football club. He died in May 2004. During his 11 years as mayor, Gil had his fingers in several notoriously sticky pies! In 1969 one of his apartment complexes collapsed, killing 58 people. He spent 18 months in jail, but was pardoned by Franco and released. Despite his dubious practices, Gil's property dealings have played no small part in Marbella's success. His replacement as mayor was his chosen successor and a close friend.

From the fine restaurants and glitzy hotels of the Golden Mile to the luxury yachts and exclusive nightclubs of nearby Puerto Banus (the Saudi King has a palace here), Marbella is a playground for royalty, celebrities and mafiosi. Yet despite a self-perpetuating reputation to the contrary, it is still easy to have fun in Marbella without being a millionaire.

Marbella's Casco Antiguo (old qurter) comes as a welcome relief after the high rise horrors further east. It's a lovely tangle of narrow alleyways and twisted streets, free of lager louts and fish and chip shops, and filled with flowers; an annual prize is awarded to the town's prettiest street garden. Among the most attractive lanes is Calle Ortiz de Molinillos, where creepers and vines choke wrought iron balconies and a magnificent statue of the Virgin perches above it all in a turquoise covered sentry box.

You can't miss the intimate central Plaza de los Naranjos, site of the old marketplace and orange orchard, and now jammed with café tables. The scent of blossom in the evening can be quite intoxicating. Also worth seeing is the Museo del Grabado Español Contemporáneo - www.museodelgrabado.com, an engraving museum housing works by Dalí, Miró and Picasso. It occupies a striking Renaissance building formerly a poor hospital and children's home. Nearby, the church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación was built in the 16th century, but like many Andalucían churches, was later remodelled in baroque style. One of the more curious of Marbella's sights is the Museo de Bonsai, the showcase of an obsessive collector.

During the summer, the Paseo de Marítimo springs to life as cafés and bars open their doors to face the sea. At the easternmost end you'll find the Puerto Deportivo. Once better known as a place to score drugs and women, it has begun to clean up its act, with some of the major business owners doing their best to promote it as a hip alternative to Puerto Banús.

Where to eat & drink in Marbella

With more than 600 restaurants to choose from, Marbella offers just about anything from anywhere in every price bracket. The Paseo Marítimo is good for funky bars and beachfront dining; head for the Golden Mile and Puerto Banus for posh dinners and world-class cuisine; but for sheer atmosphere, you can't beat the Casco Antiguo.

• Casco Antiguo
• Bar Altamirano
• La Pesquera del Faro - www.lapesquera.com
• El Estrecho
• El Balcón de la Virgen
• La Querencia
• La Cuisine
• ZoZoi

Marbella Nightlife

The nightlife doesn't really get going until after midnight in Marbella, so eat late, before heading out to enjoy the flashiest club scene on the Costa del Sol. In the Puerto Deportivo the House of Silk makes a good start to the evening before going on to one of the bigger clubs elsewhere; there's free beer and a barbeque on Sundays, served to the beat of chilled-out reggae. Nearby are Loco's for live music and El Colonial for lively flamenco. The superclubs are clustered at the Puerto Banús end of the Golden Mile. Dreamers - www.dreamers-disco.com is a great looking venue and plays a good variety of music, including sounds from the Berlin Underground while the Lounge Suite at the Hotel Puente Romano is good for R&B, soul and Latin House music. Things gets steadily more glam at La Notte but for sheer class you can't beat Olivia Valere - www.oliviavalere.com. The playground of royalty and celebrities, and housed in a hybrid replica of the Alhambra and the Mezquita, this is one of the most beautiful nightclubs in the world.

For cocktails Astral (Playa Levante) has a beautiful terrace on the beach; it's a top spot to start an evening in this ritzy part of town. For lounging with the jet set, check out the Liquid Lounge.

Where to stay in Marbella

Budget accommodation is mostly in the Casco Antiguo and ranges from fun, friendly backpackers' hostels to simple hotels in restored townhouses.

• Hostal del Pilar Marbella - www.hostel-marbella.com
• Hostal Paco Marbella
• Puerto de Aduares Marbella
• La Morada Mas Hermosa Hotel Marbella - www.lamoradamashermosa.com
• The Townhouse Marbella - www.townhouse.nu
• El Fuerte Marbella - www.fuertehoteles.com
• NH Alanda Marbella - www.nh-hotels.com