Gibraltar

Population - 27,884
Distance from Malaga airport: 67 Miles (108KMS)

Gibraltar's interest is essentially its novelty: the genuine appeal of the strange, looming physical presence of its rock: being one of Britain's last remaining colonies. This enormous hunk of limestone, five kilometres long, two kilometres wide and 450 metres high - a land area smaller than the city of Algerciras (www.algeciras.to) across the water - has fascinated and attracted people of the Meditteranean basin since Neanderthal times, confirmed by the finds of skulls and artefacts in a number of the Rock's many caves.

The rock is a curious place to visit, not least to witness the bizarre process of its opening to mass tourism from the Costa del Sol. Ironically, this threatens both to destroy Gibraltar's highly individual society and at the same time to make it much more British, after the fashion of the expat communities and huge resorts up the coast. The frontier opening has benefitted most people: Gibraltarians can buy cheaper goods in Spain, a place ironically where twenty percent of them now have second homes, while expats living on the Costa del Sol can shop in familiar shops like Mothercare, Safeway and Marks & Spencer. Despite a healthy economy based on tourism, offshore banking and its role as a major bunkering port, the colony has reached yet another crossroads in its torturous history, and the likely future - whether its population agrees to this or not - is almost certain to involve closer ties with Spain.

Recent discoveries in a cave on the southeast tip of the Rock, flint tools and evidence of camp fires and cooked meals are regraded as one of the most important prehistoric finds in modern times. The cave appears to have been inhabited by both Neanderthals and homo sapiens, and it's hoped that further excavations will provide vital evidence as to the extinction or amalgamation of our species with the earlier race.

Where to eat & drink in Gibraltar

Eating is a bit of a sad affair in Gibraltar: relatively expensive by Spanish standards, with pub snacks or fish and chips, as the norm! Main street is crowded with dismal touristy places and fast-food outlets, although the tiny Smiths Fish & Chip Shop is worth a try. Gibraltarian pubs mimic traditional English styles (and prices), but are often rowdy, full of soldiers and visiting sailors.

• Smiths Fish & Chip Shop
• Penny Farthing
• Jules Café
• Buddies Pasta Casa
• Corks Wine Bar
• The Clipper
• The Market Tavern
• Ministers Restaurant
• Saccarello's Coffee House
• Biancas
• Do Paolo
• Punjab Curry House
• Seawave Bar
• Village Inn
• La Mamela

Where to stay in Gibraltar

Shortage of space on the Rock, means that accommodation is at a premiun, especially in the summer months, and most of it is not overly inviting. It's really not worth your while searching out a good place to stay unless you have to: your best bet is to visit on day trips from Algerciras, the coast or La Línea.

• Toc H Hostel Gibraltar
• Emile Youth Hostel Gibraltar
• The Cannon Hotel Gibraltar - www.cannonhotel.gi
• Queen's Hotel Gibraltar - www.queenshotel.gi
• Hotel Bristol Gibraltar - www.Gibraltar.gi/bristolhotel
• Rock Hotel Gibraltar - www.rockhotelgibraltar.com

No camping is allowed on the peninsula of Gibraltar, and if you are caught sleeping rough or inhabiting abandonded bunkers, you are likely to be arrested and fined.